Read before cutting: methods, constraints and straightforward examples for a more reliable layout.
Important: this is a rectangular bounding-box estimator, not garment drafting software, an exact curved-piece nesting engine, or a cutting certification.
Grainline and rotation
Woven cloth has lengthwise and crosswise directions. The lengthwise grain generally follows the selvage, while the crosswise grain runs across the fabric. A paper pattern normally marks the intended grainline with an arrow.
When a pattern arrow must run lengthwise, changing a rectangle from portrait to landscape may make the estimate look better but produce the wrong physical cut. Disable 90° rotation for that piece. For napped fabric, directional print, pile or shine, also lock the global directional setting.
Before cutting, check the printed pattern instructions, grain arrow, stretch and fabric face. This planner uses rectangular envelopes; it does not detect the true grain from a photograph or imported file.
A fold lets one half-pattern produce a symmetrical full piece. The paper edge labeled “place on fold” must sit on the fold, rather than being surrounded by an ordinary seam allowance.
In the studio, activate folded fabric; the usable width becomes half the nominal roll width. Mark the special piece “align with fold” so its bounding rectangle is placed against the left fold boundary. Other pieces can occupy remaining room.
For real work, double-check how many plies are being cut, whether the pattern includes seam allowance, and whether the fold truly follows the grain. This model reports cut operations, not finished garment quantity.
A seam allowance is the extra cloth between the stitching line and cut edge. If you enter dimensions measured only to the stitching line, add the allowance in the fabric settings. If your rectangles already include allowance, enter zero to avoid double counting.
The planner adds two seam allowances to each rectangle dimension and reserves a small piece-to-piece gap. This makes a conservative, transparent bounding-box estimate; it does not follow curved cut contours.
For example, a 40 × 60 cm rectangle with a 1 cm allowance on every side becomes 42 × 62 cm, before the optional space between pieces.
Print direction matters for animals, lettering, gradients, velvet, corduroy and textiles whose surface looks different when turned. Rotating a piece by 90° can cause inconsistent appearance even when it fits geometrically.
Enable the directional setting to prevent automatic 90° rotation of every piece. The planner does not position motifs so stripes or plaids connect across seams. Use the separate repeat-rounding calculator only to estimate a starting reserve.
Lay real tissue pieces on the cloth and align the relevant motifs manually. Allow extra fabric for large repeats, symmetrical pairs and prominent front panels.
To estimate a purchase, start with the full fabric width and enter accurate bounding sizes for the chosen pieces. The planner computes an arrangement and a required length in centimetres or inches. Convert centimetres to metres by dividing by 100, and inches to yards by dividing by 36.
An estimated material cost equals required purchase length multiplied by price per metre or yard. It excludes taxes, shipping, prewash shrinkage, cutting mistakes and motif matching unless you manually add more length.
Consider a small extra safety margin when the fabric is precious or the seller does not cut exact lengths. Always compare the estimate with the pattern envelope’s yardage chart.
Stacking rectangles to minimize fabric length is an instance of two-dimensional packing. Different orderings produce different usable arrangements; they are generally not guaranteed to be globally optimal.
The studio compares three greedy free-rectangle heuristics. Efficiency is total outer rectangular area divided by usable fabric width times used length, expressed as a percentage. Curved outlines may leave more real waste inside those rectangles.
The result is useful for comparisons, not as a certification of industrial cutting yield. Dragging a piece manually can improve a practical layout, but every adjustment should be checked for overlaps and grain alignment.